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Tweak Board


Tweak Board Step-By-Step Instructions

Cost: $155.00 plus shipping and handling

Unity Tool, Inc.
accepts Visa, Master Card and American Express.

 
1. Ready to align car
 
2. Check Caster
 
3. Check Camber
 
4. Check Toe-In
Thank you for your interest in the most accurate R/C alignment equipment available today. The aluminum parts have been coated with a Teflon impregnated hard coating that will insure many years of wear protection and smooth operation. The vial gauges are special (19 min. accuracy) and twice as sensitive as the standard gauges (35-40 min.) found in most hardware stores. The most unique feature is the camber, caster, and toe in blocks, only found on our tweak boards. Now you can set the alignment accurately in minutes, instead of trying to measure and guess. Ever wonder why a new car seems to go faster, and handle better than after it’s been it’s been used and abused for awhile? Week is the answer! Getting all four tires to put the same pressure on the road surface, so when you want to go left or right it will respond equally in both directions. On full scale race cars they use scales under each wheel to measure the pressure, but R/C cars can use the centering bubble to do the same thing. Just center the car on the board with the rear of the car over the movable bar and adjust until the bubble is centered. Your week board comes packaged in a very compact kit, and the two bolts are finger tight (don’t over tighten). As you take out the two bolts, set the alignment blocks on a flat surface, then take the center bar (3 bars - 1/10, 1/12, 1/8) for the size car you wish to align, and insert one of the three socket head set screws found inside the long stationary bar (threaded holes on each end), then put the center bar and the long stationary bar together with the two bolts you took our earlier. This will form the letter T, and the three socket head set screws will make three legs. Using the bubble gauge on the stationary bar, adjust until level side to side. (Try to keep the top of the set screw from protruding through the upper level of the bar, so the alignment blocks will slide over the top of the bar). Next take the front moveable bar and set it on top and perpendicular to the rear bar and adjust the front socket head set screw to make the T shape level front to rear. Now slide the front moveable bar over the bearing pin at the front of the center bar and it should swivel freely. (See picture 1) Now your ready to go!

Step 1: Setting caster adjustment, set the chassis on a flat table and slide the alignment block next to the front tire, then sight along the protractor front edge turning it until it lines up with the king pin. (See picture 2) Rule of the thumb, set about 4 degrees back at the top.

Step 2: The centering marks are eleven inches wide to handle even the 1/8th scale cars. Just center the chassis on the front and rear bars, gently push down in the center of the chassis and let it come back to its normal height. The stationary bar and front of the chassis should be toward you, this way the rear of the car will be able to float freely on the swivel bar. Per your cars assembly instructions, adjust week until bubble gauge is centered. Each time you make an adjustment gently push down the center of the chassis and recheck the gauge.

Step 3: Setting camber adjustment blocks on edge with the machined notch at the rear edge of the stationary bar, loosen the protractor knob so it may rotate freely and move it against the wheel. (See picture 3) The gauge reading will give you degrees, the top of the tire is cambered (positive - out, negative - in). Rule of thumb, start with 1 degree negative camber for carpet and asphalt cars.

Step 4: Setting tow in adjustment, put the alignment blocks flat, push protractors up against the side of the wheels. Turn on the transmitter and the receiver, so the servo will stop in the normal straight ahead position, check each wheel to see if it’s toed in or out. (See picture 4) Rule of thumb, set each 1/2 degree toe in. The forward motion of the car will pull the front of the tires out and parallel to each other. (Note: Heim joints keep the slop in the steering to a minimum.)

Step 5: Checking setback, take a ruler and measure the distance from right front axle to right rear axle, then do the same on the left side. (Note: They should be the same.)

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at 1-763-428-9888

 

Company Information 763.428.9888             © 2012 Unity Tool, Inc.